Coronavirus Pandemic으로 전세계가 그방비책을 확실히 찾지못해 속수무책으로 무너지고 있는데...
유독 휴양지, Bali섬 주민들의 Lockdown실시로 에너지 절약은 물론이고, 인명피해도 최대로 줄이고 있다는 특이한 뉴스가 주목을 끌고 있다. 물론 Lockdown은 일년중 단 하루인점이, 현재 전세계인들의 목숨을 위협하고있는 Covid-19전염병과는 다른점이긴 하지만.....
내가 운이 없어서 였을까? 아니면 Timing이 안맞아서 였을까? 인도네시아 지역을 약 한달간 탐방하면서, Bali섬, 그곳에서만 약 1주일 즐길때는 그러한 독특한 그들만의 의식에 대해 들어보지 못했던 점이 아쉽게 지금 느껴진다.
https://lifemeansgo.blogspot.com/2017/04/47bali-denpasar-farming-home.html
그곳은 다른 인도네시아 지방이 회교도를 신봉하는것과는 달리, 인도인들이 섬기는 힌두교를 섬기지만, 힌두교 섬기는 방법도, 원산지인 인도인들이 섬기는 방법과 교리에서 많이 다른 방법으로 섬기는 곳이라는점은 잘알고 왔었지만...
그곳 주민들의 풍습중 하나인, 즉 그들의 달력으로 새해 첫날에는 섬전체의 모든 기능을 다 멈추고, 오직 잠자리가 날으는 소리, 개구리들의 울음소리가, 우리 인간들이 들을수있는 유일한 Sound였다.
3월 25일은 그들이 섬기는 설날이었다. 인간들이 만들어내는 그 어떠한 소음도 없었다. 스쿠터타고 다니는 사람들도, 어깨에 메고 다니면서 그들의 전통음식 국수파는 장사꾼도, 귓창을 터뜨릴것 같은 비행기도 소음도 이날만큼은 전연 들리지 않는다. 즉 그들의 설날이면서, 조용히 아무것도 하지않고, 묵념으로 24시간을 각자의 집안에서 보내면서, 지난해를 돌이켜보고, 또 새해를 맞이하는, 그들만의 전통의식이 진행되는 날이다.
"Bali인들이 섬기는 귀신, Buta-Kala가 멀리 물러갔다가 다시 때가되면 되돌아온다는 의식이며, 발리의 모든 사원들이, 귀신을 만족시킨다고 여기는, Caru를 따라 진행되고, 그렇게 하는것이 그귀신들의 악행을 만족시키고, 결국에는 삶에 도움이 되는 신이 되게하는 의식이다"라고, Garrett Kam씨는 설명하는데, 특이한것은, Kam씨는 원래 이곳태생이 아니고 약 30년전부터 이곳에서 살고있는 외지인이다. 그는 Bedulu, Gianyar에 있는 Pura Samuan Tig 사원에서 거주하면서, 이의식을 주관하는 부메니져이다.
"새해 이브인, Nyepi의 정오에는 'Tawur agung, 즉 일년동안 귀신들에게 밀려왔던 빛을 청산하기위해, 모든 마을, 타운쉽, 도시 그리고 모든 기관들이 많은 지출을 모아둔다. 그러한 의식은 십년, 백년 주기로 발리섬의 주요 사원들이 중심이 되여 그동안 축적해 두었던 모든것을 귀신에게 바치는 의식인것이다."
"금년의 의식은 가장 큰규모라고 할수있겠다. Ogoh-ogoh의식이 Banjar, 즉 각공동체들안에서 조용히 행해지지것만 허용될뿐, 그 어떠한 퍼레이드는 허용안되는 상태에서 진행된다. 그러나 가끔씩은 많은 비용을 들여 이곳까지 탐방온 젊은이들의 반발이 발생하곤 한다. 그러나 대부분의 주민들은 퍼레이드가 금지되는지를 잘 이해하고있다
한가지 변하지 않고 전수되는게 있다. 전세계가 Coronavirus Pandemic으로 모든 사람들의 모임행사같은것을 폐쇄시켜 큰 충격을 주고 있지만, 발리주민들은 이러한 폐쇄명령에 익숙해져 있다. Nyepi, 즉 설날은 섬전체가 정중동으로 적막감에 쌓여 지낸다.
아무도 집밖의 출입이 금지되는데, 그뜻은 설날을 집안에서, 불빛없이 설날을 보낸다는 뜻이다. 즉 아무것도 하지않고 편히 쉰다는뜻이기도하다. 모든 상점들은 폐쇄하고, 비행장도 24시간은 완전 폐쇄다. 상당수의 발리인들은 금식도 하며, 셀폰도 꺼놓는다. 대화도 거의 나누지 않는다. 그들이 키우는 개들이나 닭들도 그날만큼은 더 조용하게 지낸다고, Kam씨는 설명해준다. 각지역의 경찰들도 거리와 백사장의 순찰을 강화하는데, 이는 법을 위반하는지를 단속하기위함이라고 한다.
어쨋던 발리섬은 독특한 그들만의 전통을 이어가면서, 그들만이 섬기는 신들이 여러모로 많은 휴양지임에는 틀림없는것 같다.
Can the rest of the world learn something from Bali, Indonesia, where slowing down and switching off is already mandated by law – if only for a day?
Vote for us.
It was early afternoon on 25 March in Bali, and for the first time in a long time I could hear myself think. There were no scooters zooming by, no noodle sellers peddling their wares, not even the occasional sound of a plane flying overhead.
In their absence, I noticed the buzz of a dragonfly and a frog’s ribbit as I sat quietly on my porch, trying to get into the spirit of Nyepi – the island’s New Year’s Day, or “Silent Day” – when for 24 hours Balinese people stay quietly in their homes and reflect on the year gone by and gear up for the one to come.
Usually, Balinese New Year’s Day is the calm after the storm. On a typical Balinese New Year’s Eve, the island is a riot of noise and colour. For months, locals have worked on building their neighbourhood’s ogoh-ogoh, a huge effigy made from bamboo and papier-mâché in the shape of a demon. On the big day, the effigies are paraded through the streets in theatrical, boisterous ceremonies.
Also, gamelan bands play while Balinese people practise pengrupukan, which at the household level, is a ceremony that involves brushing a burning bundle of dried coconut leaves against the base of every shrine and building to the accompaniment of noisemaking on bamboo tubes and pot lids while shouting for demons to leave. Over time, the New Year’s Eve ceremony has spilled out from households to public parades with bamboo torches on the streets to rid the whole neighbourhood and town of demons.
You may also be interested in:
• What happens to Earth in our absence?
• A town where most speak sign language
• How an outrage over chicken united South-East Asia
Each year, Balinese New Year takes place on a different day as it’s governed by the “Saka” calendar, which is based on the phases of the moon. The Saka dynasty was first founded in 78AD by King Kanishka of India and was said to have been brought to Java by Hindu missionaries and later spread to Bali, which today is the only remaining island in Indonesia with a Hindu majority in a country that’s 90% Muslim.
Celebrations start three days before Nyepi with Melasti, where holy images from temples are taken by procession to the nearest sea, lake, river or spring, where they’re cleansed of any physical or spiritual impurities and people make offerings and pray to their newly purified deities. Two days later, at noon on the eve of Nyepi, tawur agung (pay-offs) of animal sacrifices, raw meat, eggs and liquor are offered to demons along with loud music and noises, which both attract them and then send them away once they’re appeased.
“The practice of getting buta-kala (demons) to leave goes back far in time,” said Garrett Kam, who has been living in South-East Asia for more than 30 years and is the only non-Balinese ritual assistant at Pura Samuan Tiga temple in Bedulu, Gianyar, where he lives. “Every temple ceremony in Bali is preceded by caru (demon-appeasing sacrifices) so that their malevolent desires are satisfied and they become benevolent deities.
Kam continued: “At noon on the eve of Nyepi, such tawur agung or big payoffs occur on a large scale in every village, town, city and district to pay off the demons that accumulate during the year. Every 10 and 100 years, they happen at the island's most important temples to pay off accumulating demons from the decade and century.”
This year, the festivities were heavily scaled back, reminding Kam of his first Nyepi in Bali in the 1980s.
“Ogoh-ogoh were only allowed to be shown around the banjar (local community) that made them and without parades,” he said. “And while some youth groups protested as they had spent thousands of dollars and many weeks on their ogoh-ogoh, most people understood why the parades were banned.”
One thing, though, remained unchanged. While many people across the world are finding the coronavirus lockdown to be a shock to the system, the Balinese are used to it. Every year on Nyepi, the entire island falls silent.
No-one is allowed to leave their homes where they are meant to spend their day with no fire or light (that means no work and no entertainment). Businesses are closed and even the airport shuts down for 24 hours. Some Balinese also fast, turn off their phones and do not speak except in short whispers. Even dogs and roosters are quieter than usual, according to Kam. The local police patrol the streets and beaches to make sure nobody is flouting the rules.
The reason they do this is because, according to Balinese beliefs, any demons that might return will think the island is deserted and leave it alone for another year. But the Balinese also use this time to reflect on the past year and set goals for the future.
“The silence that this time provides is truly the best way to meditate,” said Sri Darwiati, a Balinese Hindu who was raised in a village in the island’s Tabanan regency and is now school secretary and a board member at Green School Bali. “I have been celebrating and enjoying Nyepi day for more than 40 years, and as I am getting older, I continue to learn the significance behind the ritual.”
She believes spending time at home with your family, even just for a day, can bring joy, and that taking time to reflect can help make us more productive in the future. For Kam, this is all the more important now because the Balinese generally lead very active lives and are rarely at home. “Nyepi allows a full day for them to reconnect with their families without being distracted by TV and internet,” he said.
With social distancing measures now in place in Bali, following one extra day of Nyepi, which was extended this year due to the coronavirus, the benefits associated with “Silent Day” are stretching further. “Fathers are teaching their sons gamelan music and art. My neighbour is learning to play the ukulele on his own. Mothers are teaching their daughters household skills and to help out at their small kiosks and roadside stalls,” Kam said. “This all means a continuing of traditions not learned in classrooms and increased respect for elders who have more roles to fulfil today.”
Nyepi has also been shown to have a positive impact on the environment, even if it is just for 24 hours. A 2015 study by the Indonesian Agency for Meteorology, Climatology and Geophysics found that total suspended particulate (TSP) concentrations decreased by 73-78% in urban areas on the Balinese Day of Silence, while an analysis by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) saw a 33% reduction of greenhouse gas emissions on Nyepi Day.
As Darwiati said, this is just from one day and one island. “If we were to start a nationwide event, our impact would be much larger. With an event like this not only would we be giving ourselves a break and some room to breathe, we’d also be giving the environment a break from all the carbon we constantly use.”
With half of the global population on coronavirus lockdown, there’s no better time to learn from a culture where slowing down and switching off has been mandated for centuries – if only for a day at a time.
“Prior to Covid-19, Bali was the only airport in the world that would close down, for 24 hours during the Balinese New Year. This is a big move for an island that relies heavily on tourism but shows the great respect for tradition and slowing down that is so ingrained in Balinese culture,” Darwiati said. “The West can learn to honour the simple things in life – connecting with nature, connecting with family, connecting with ourselves – slowing down, switching off and looking at the stars.”
I took her advice. As soon as dusk fell, I went into the garden and gazed up at the inkiest, most star-filled sky I’d ever seen. There was no electric light or fire in sight. As Kam said, “So much has become lost due to light and noise pollution.” When Nyepi was extended for a day this year, I can’t say I was disappointed. Another day of no work, fire, entertainment or travelling didn’t seem so bad. I decided to keep my laptop closed for another 24 hours.
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200430-where-lockdown-is-an-annual-tradition
유독 휴양지, Bali섬 주민들의 Lockdown실시로 에너지 절약은 물론이고, 인명피해도 최대로 줄이고 있다는 특이한 뉴스가 주목을 끌고 있다. 물론 Lockdown은 일년중 단 하루인점이, 현재 전세계인들의 목숨을 위협하고있는 Covid-19전염병과는 다른점이긴 하지만.....
내가 운이 없어서 였을까? 아니면 Timing이 안맞아서 였을까? 인도네시아 지역을 약 한달간 탐방하면서, Bali섬, 그곳에서만 약 1주일 즐길때는 그러한 독특한 그들만의 의식에 대해 들어보지 못했던 점이 아쉽게 지금 느껴진다.
https://lifemeansgo.blogspot.com/2017/04/47bali-denpasar-farming-home.html
그곳은 다른 인도네시아 지방이 회교도를 신봉하는것과는 달리, 인도인들이 섬기는 힌두교를 섬기지만, 힌두교 섬기는 방법도, 원산지인 인도인들이 섬기는 방법과 교리에서 많이 다른 방법으로 섬기는 곳이라는점은 잘알고 왔었지만...
그곳 주민들의 풍습중 하나인, 즉 그들의 달력으로 새해 첫날에는 섬전체의 모든 기능을 다 멈추고, 오직 잠자리가 날으는 소리, 개구리들의 울음소리가, 우리 인간들이 들을수있는 유일한 Sound였다.
3월 25일은 그들이 섬기는 설날이었다. 인간들이 만들어내는 그 어떠한 소음도 없었다. 스쿠터타고 다니는 사람들도, 어깨에 메고 다니면서 그들의 전통음식 국수파는 장사꾼도, 귓창을 터뜨릴것 같은 비행기도 소음도 이날만큼은 전연 들리지 않는다. 즉 그들의 설날이면서, 조용히 아무것도 하지않고, 묵념으로 24시간을 각자의 집안에서 보내면서, 지난해를 돌이켜보고, 또 새해를 맞이하는, 그들만의 전통의식이 진행되는 날이다.
"Bali인들이 섬기는 귀신, Buta-Kala가 멀리 물러갔다가 다시 때가되면 되돌아온다는 의식이며, 발리의 모든 사원들이, 귀신을 만족시킨다고 여기는, Caru를 따라 진행되고, 그렇게 하는것이 그귀신들의 악행을 만족시키고, 결국에는 삶에 도움이 되는 신이 되게하는 의식이다"라고, Garrett Kam씨는 설명하는데, 특이한것은, Kam씨는 원래 이곳태생이 아니고 약 30년전부터 이곳에서 살고있는 외지인이다. 그는 Bedulu, Gianyar에 있는 Pura Samuan Tig 사원에서 거주하면서, 이의식을 주관하는 부메니져이다.
"새해 이브인, Nyepi의 정오에는 'Tawur agung, 즉 일년동안 귀신들에게 밀려왔던 빛을 청산하기위해, 모든 마을, 타운쉽, 도시 그리고 모든 기관들이 많은 지출을 모아둔다. 그러한 의식은 십년, 백년 주기로 발리섬의 주요 사원들이 중심이 되여 그동안 축적해 두었던 모든것을 귀신에게 바치는 의식인것이다."
"금년의 의식은 가장 큰규모라고 할수있겠다. Ogoh-ogoh의식이 Banjar, 즉 각공동체들안에서 조용히 행해지지것만 허용될뿐, 그 어떠한 퍼레이드는 허용안되는 상태에서 진행된다. 그러나 가끔씩은 많은 비용을 들여 이곳까지 탐방온 젊은이들의 반발이 발생하곤 한다. 그러나 대부분의 주민들은 퍼레이드가 금지되는지를 잘 이해하고있다
한가지 변하지 않고 전수되는게 있다. 전세계가 Coronavirus Pandemic으로 모든 사람들의 모임행사같은것을 폐쇄시켜 큰 충격을 주고 있지만, 발리주민들은 이러한 폐쇄명령에 익숙해져 있다. Nyepi, 즉 설날은 섬전체가 정중동으로 적막감에 쌓여 지낸다.
아무도 집밖의 출입이 금지되는데, 그뜻은 설날을 집안에서, 불빛없이 설날을 보낸다는 뜻이다. 즉 아무것도 하지않고 편히 쉰다는뜻이기도하다. 모든 상점들은 폐쇄하고, 비행장도 24시간은 완전 폐쇄다. 상당수의 발리인들은 금식도 하며, 셀폰도 꺼놓는다. 대화도 거의 나누지 않는다. 그들이 키우는 개들이나 닭들도 그날만큼은 더 조용하게 지낸다고, Kam씨는 설명해준다. 각지역의 경찰들도 거리와 백사장의 순찰을 강화하는데, 이는 법을 위반하는지를 단속하기위함이라고 한다.
어쨋던 발리섬은 독특한 그들만의 전통을 이어가면서, 그들만이 섬기는 신들이 여러모로 많은 휴양지임에는 틀림없는것 같다.
Can the rest of the world learn something from Bali, Indonesia, where slowing down and switching off is already mandated by law – if only for a day?
It was early afternoon on 25 March in Bali, and for the first time in a long time I could hear myself think. There were no scooters zooming by, no noodle sellers peddling their wares, not even the occasional sound of a plane flying overhead.
In their absence, I noticed the buzz of a dragonfly and a frog’s ribbit as I sat quietly on my porch, trying to get into the spirit of Nyepi – the island’s New Year’s Day, or “Silent Day” – when for 24 hours Balinese people stay quietly in their homes and reflect on the year gone by and gear up for the one to come.
Usually, Balinese New Year’s Day is the calm after the storm. On a typical Balinese New Year’s Eve, the island is a riot of noise and colour. For months, locals have worked on building their neighbourhood’s ogoh-ogoh, a huge effigy made from bamboo and papier-mâché in the shape of a demon. On the big day, the effigies are paraded through the streets in theatrical, boisterous ceremonies.
Also, gamelan bands play while Balinese people practise pengrupukan, which at the household level, is a ceremony that involves brushing a burning bundle of dried coconut leaves against the base of every shrine and building to the accompaniment of noisemaking on bamboo tubes and pot lids while shouting for demons to leave. Over time, the New Year’s Eve ceremony has spilled out from households to public parades with bamboo torches on the streets to rid the whole neighbourhood and town of demons.
You may also be interested in:
• What happens to Earth in our absence?
• A town where most speak sign language
• How an outrage over chicken united South-East Asia
Each year, Balinese New Year takes place on a different day as it’s governed by the “Saka” calendar, which is based on the phases of the moon. The Saka dynasty was first founded in 78AD by King Kanishka of India and was said to have been brought to Java by Hindu missionaries and later spread to Bali, which today is the only remaining island in Indonesia with a Hindu majority in a country that’s 90% Muslim.
Celebrations start three days before Nyepi with Melasti, where holy images from temples are taken by procession to the nearest sea, lake, river or spring, where they’re cleansed of any physical or spiritual impurities and people make offerings and pray to their newly purified deities. Two days later, at noon on the eve of Nyepi, tawur agung (pay-offs) of animal sacrifices, raw meat, eggs and liquor are offered to demons along with loud music and noises, which both attract them and then send them away once they’re appeased.
“The practice of getting buta-kala (demons) to leave goes back far in time,” said Garrett Kam, who has been living in South-East Asia for more than 30 years and is the only non-Balinese ritual assistant at Pura Samuan Tiga temple in Bedulu, Gianyar, where he lives. “Every temple ceremony in Bali is preceded by caru (demon-appeasing sacrifices) so that their malevolent desires are satisfied and they become benevolent deities.
Kam continued: “At noon on the eve of Nyepi, such tawur agung or big payoffs occur on a large scale in every village, town, city and district to pay off the demons that accumulate during the year. Every 10 and 100 years, they happen at the island's most important temples to pay off accumulating demons from the decade and century.”
This year, the festivities were heavily scaled back, reminding Kam of his first Nyepi in Bali in the 1980s.
“Ogoh-ogoh were only allowed to be shown around the banjar (local community) that made them and without parades,” he said. “And while some youth groups protested as they had spent thousands of dollars and many weeks on their ogoh-ogoh, most people understood why the parades were banned.”
One thing, though, remained unchanged. While many people across the world are finding the coronavirus lockdown to be a shock to the system, the Balinese are used to it. Every year on Nyepi, the entire island falls silent.
No-one is allowed to leave their homes where they are meant to spend their day with no fire or light (that means no work and no entertainment). Businesses are closed and even the airport shuts down for 24 hours. Some Balinese also fast, turn off their phones and do not speak except in short whispers. Even dogs and roosters are quieter than usual, according to Kam. The local police patrol the streets and beaches to make sure nobody is flouting the rules.
The reason they do this is because, according to Balinese beliefs, any demons that might return will think the island is deserted and leave it alone for another year. But the Balinese also use this time to reflect on the past year and set goals for the future.
“The silence that this time provides is truly the best way to meditate,” said Sri Darwiati, a Balinese Hindu who was raised in a village in the island’s Tabanan regency and is now school secretary and a board member at Green School Bali. “I have been celebrating and enjoying Nyepi day for more than 40 years, and as I am getting older, I continue to learn the significance behind the ritual.”
She believes spending time at home with your family, even just for a day, can bring joy, and that taking time to reflect can help make us more productive in the future. For Kam, this is all the more important now because the Balinese generally lead very active lives and are rarely at home. “Nyepi allows a full day for them to reconnect with their families without being distracted by TV and internet,” he said.
With social distancing measures now in place in Bali, following one extra day of Nyepi, which was extended this year due to the coronavirus, the benefits associated with “Silent Day” are stretching further. “Fathers are teaching their sons gamelan music and art. My neighbour is learning to play the ukulele on his own. Mothers are teaching their daughters household skills and to help out at their small kiosks and roadside stalls,” Kam said. “This all means a continuing of traditions not learned in classrooms and increased respect for elders who have more roles to fulfil today.”
Nyepi has also been shown to have a positive impact on the environment, even if it is just for 24 hours. A 2015 study by the Indonesian Agency for Meteorology, Climatology and Geophysics found that total suspended particulate (TSP) concentrations decreased by 73-78% in urban areas on the Balinese Day of Silence, while an analysis by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) saw a 33% reduction of greenhouse gas emissions on Nyepi Day.
As Darwiati said, this is just from one day and one island. “If we were to start a nationwide event, our impact would be much larger. With an event like this not only would we be giving ourselves a break and some room to breathe, we’d also be giving the environment a break from all the carbon we constantly use.”
With half of the global population on coronavirus lockdown, there’s no better time to learn from a culture where slowing down and switching off has been mandated for centuries – if only for a day at a time.
“Prior to Covid-19, Bali was the only airport in the world that would close down, for 24 hours during the Balinese New Year. This is a big move for an island that relies heavily on tourism but shows the great respect for tradition and slowing down that is so ingrained in Balinese culture,” Darwiati said. “The West can learn to honour the simple things in life – connecting with nature, connecting with family, connecting with ourselves – slowing down, switching off and looking at the stars.”
I took her advice. As soon as dusk fell, I went into the garden and gazed up at the inkiest, most star-filled sky I’d ever seen. There was no electric light or fire in sight. As Kam said, “So much has become lost due to light and noise pollution.” When Nyepi was extended for a day this year, I can’t say I was disappointed. Another day of no work, fire, entertainment or travelling didn’t seem so bad. I decided to keep my laptop closed for another 24 hours.
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200430-where-lockdown-is-an-annual-tradition
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