한국의 부대찌개(군대짬빵)가 그유명세를 타고 전세계적인 젊은이들의 입맛을 점령하고 있다는 좋은 소식에, 한국은 정치꾼들만 많이도 말고, 조그만 UP Grade되면 스위스 부럽지 않은 살기좋은나라, 북의 공산집단의 위협없이 낭만적인 삶을 Enjoy할수 있을것 같은데....
한국전쟁이 끝난후, 있는것이라고는 잿더미밖에 없는 처절한 전쟁의 상처에서 살아남기위한 수단으로 한여인이 생각해낸 요리방법으로 만든 꿀꿀이죽 찌개가 전체 사회에 급속히 퍼저나갔는데, 지금은 한국사회의 가장 먹기쉽고, 마음을 포근하게 해주는 음식중의 하나로 자리를 잡고있다.
서울에서 북쪽으로 30킬로 위치에 있는 '의정부'에 있는 Odeng Sikdang의 색바랜 벽에는 처음 이음식이 신문에 보도된것을 클립하여 벽에 걸어둔 색바랜 사진틀이 걸려 있다. 식당손님으로 보이는,22세의 Grace Moon이 부대찌개냄비의 뚜껑을 열자 뜨거운 김이 얼굴을 감싼다. 올라온 김이 채 사라지기도 전에 나와 그녀에게 약간 덜익은 김치와 매운청량고추가 우리를 반기고 있었다. 냄비속에서 끓고있는 부대찌개에는 햄,쏘세지, 양념된고기, 베이컨, 만두, 떡볶이, 라면이 빨간색의 국물과 어울려 부글부글 끌고 있었다.
먼저 젖가락으로 라면을 들어올리면서 정말 맛있게 생겼다. "이부대찌개는 다른 체인점에서 먹는것과는 아주다른 맛있는 찌개라면이다"라고 환성이다.
Grace Moon의 할머니에게는 이부대찌개를 생각할때마다, 전쟁후의 아픈 상처들이 가슴을 여민다.
Korean-American 뉴전음식이 맨처음 한국사회에 퍼지게된 정확한 몇가지의 속설들이 있긴하다. 그러나 그여러 속설중 가장 정확한 속설이 퍼저나온곳은 바로 미군들이 주둔해 있었던 '의정부'로 알려져 있으며, 그의정부의 원조식당이 '허기숙' 할머니였다는 것이다.
2014년도에 사망하신 허할머니는 생전에 여러번 손녀딸 Grace Moon에게 과거 얘기를 많이 해주셨었다. 할머니는 인근의 미군부대에서 먹고남은 볶은 고기조각들을 오뎅과 함께 섞어 간이식탁에서 손님들에게 팔곤 했었는데, 하루는 한손님이 그녀에게 귀뜸해주기를 고기덩이를 매운국물과 쌀밥에 넣어서 음식을 만들어 보세요라고.
"그때에는 전후라서 먹을게 충분치 않았었지만, 용케도 햄과 쏘세지를 구할수는 있었다. 그러한 고기를 얻는 방법은 오직 미군부대에서 몰래 빼오는 방법이 있을 뿐이었다. 우리가 만들수있는 음식은 미군병사들이 먹고남은 고기를 이용하는것이었다. 우린 미군부대에서 나온 것들을 이용하여 스튜를 만드는것이었다. 내음식 조리법을 많은 식당들이 모방해서, 전국적으로 퍼져 나가게 됐었다"라고 허할머니는 2013년 the BBC와 인터뷰에서 설명해 주셨었다.
이음식이 성공적으로 잘 팔리자, 할머니는 자신이 생겨, 식당을 꾸미고 "오뎅식당"간판을 걸고, 1960년대 초부터 팔기시작했었다. 이소문이 퍼져 많은 식당들이 전국에 걸쳐 미군부대 주변에 우후죽순처럼 식당들이 문을 열고 영업을 하기 시작했다. 1966년도에 미국 Lyndon Johnson 대통령이한국을 방문하였는데, 금새 존슨대통령이 부대찌개를 즐겨먹는 팬이었다라는 소문들이 주위에 퍼져, "존슨탕"이라는 닉네임까지 붙어, 널리 사람들에게 애용됐었다고 한다.
문제는 이렇게 어려운 환경과 배고픔을 통해, 이제는 전세계의 젊은이들에게 인기를 끌고 있는 짬빵국밥(부대찌개)을 자칮하면 더 이상 맘놓고, 여유있게 즐기면서 먹을수도 없게 될것 같다는 슬픈소식이, 즉 문재인정부와 그줄기의 하나인 통일부에서 북한 김정은, 김여정 Regime의 공갈에 벌벌 떨면서, 북한의 요구를 다 들어주어, 결론적으로 머지않아, 5천만 국민들의 한서린 긴역사를 어렵게 지내오면서 오늘날의 평화로움과 풍부함을, 자유민주주의와 Freedom을 즐기는 분위기속에서 전세계에 홍보 되여, 자유대한민국의 긍지를 심어주면서 여기까지 왔는데, 그러한 Freedom을 제한하고, 북한사회의 억압된 독재정치가 우리 한국사회에 곧 들이 닥칠것 같다는 불안감이 엄습한다.
그이유로, 탈북민들이 북한주민들에게 소식과 먹거리를 담은 큰 풍선 띄우는것을 불법으로 규정하고, 이를 어길경우 감옥에 보내기위한 입법 추진을 하고 있다는 뉴스가 보도 됐기 때문이다.
태영호 의원같은 자유지킴이 불침번을 북한으로 쫓아 내겠다는 개소리들이 청와대와 여당민주당 찌라시의원들 사이에서 내놓고 떠들고 있음이 또 다른 이유이기도 한다. 60만 대군과 한미동맹으로 주한미군들이 우리 한국을 돕기위해 지난 70년을 지켜주었고, 앞으로도 그 동맹관계는 이어져야 하는데, 문재인 사회주의자들과 민주당 찌라시의원들이 이를 파기하고, 북한 김정은 Regime에게 깍뜻이 "위원장니"이라 호칭하면서, 나라를 통채로 바칠려고, 갖은 위협으로 국민들에게 공갈치고 있는 현실을 보면서, 위에서 언급한 자유로운 분위기속에서 '부대찌개'먹는 낭만이 사라질 위기감이 너무도 슬프기만 한다. 문재인 아버지도 부대찌개를 먹고 배를 채웠었다는 풍문도 있더만.... 돼지에게 금목걸이는 무슨 의미가 있는가? 똑같은 비애감을 느낀다.
정치꾼들만 조금 정신차려 준다면, 우리 한국이 세계 일등국가로 Up Grade되는것은 너무도 쉬운 일인데....
https://www.donga.com/news/Politics/article/all/20200614/101499688/2?ref=main
In the painful aftermath of the Korean War, one woman’s recipe for a survival stew quickly spread across the country. Now, it’s one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.
Framed newspaper clippings and family photos hung on the faded yellow wallpaper of Odeng Sikdang restaurant in Uijeongbu, a city 30km north of Seoul. A cloud of steam engulfed 22-year-old Grace Moon’s face as she lifted the lid from a pot of budae-jjigae (army stew), and even before the fog dissipated, she and I were greeted by the savoury aroma of cheongyang chilli peppers and slightly fermented kimchi. The cauldron brimmed with generous portions of ham, sausage, minced meat, bacon, dumplings, rice cakes and ramen noodles sardined in a bubbling red soup.
Slurping up the ramen first, Moon, nodded with approval: “This is definitely different from the franchise stuff.”
Over lunch, Moon told me how her grandmother had first come across army stew after fleeing North Korea as a 12-year-old girl, and how she used to ask her grandmother to make it for her as a child. Moon said she would always oblige, even though it brought back traumatic memories of her journey escaping Pyongyang.
There are a handful of theories as to exactly how this first Korean-American fusion meal originated, but the most widely acknowledged one harks back to here in Uijeongbu, and this very restaurant’s founder: Heo Gi-Suk.
Heo, who passed away in 2014, told her story at every opportunity. She used to stir-fry leftover meat from the nearby US Army base at a small odeng (fish cake) stand when a regular customer suggested she make the meats into a spicy soup with rice.
"Back then there wasn’t a lot to eat, but I acquired some ham and sausages. The only way to get meat in those days was to smuggle it from the army base,” Heo told the BBC in 2013. “We had to make do with whatever the soldiers had left over. We’d make a stew with whatever came out of the base, and my recipe was copied and spread throughout Korea.”
With the dish’s success, Heo turned her humble stand into a restaurant and opened Odeng Sikdang in 1960. Soon, restaurants serving the dish began to pop up near US military bases across the country. After US president Lyndon B Johnson visited South Korea in 1966, rumours circulated that he was a fan of the stew – giving budae-jjigae the nickname “Johnson-tang” (“Johnson soup”).
As more restaurants served army stew, more families started making the dish at home. To this day, each region has a slightly different take on budae-jjigae and fierce debates are had over which type of broth (kelp and anchovy or slow-cooked beef bone) is best, and if the ingredients should be stir-fried beforehand or not. In addition to the ingredients found at Odeng Sikdang, popular toppings include bacon, spring onions, mushrooms, baked beans, American yellow cheese and Spam. In fact, today South Koreans produce and consume more Spam than anywhere outside the US, and in many ways, this is due to budae-jjigae’s popularity in the decades after the Korean War.
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These days, army stew can be found practically everywhere in South Korea. Nolboo, a budae-jjigae franchise, opened its first location in 1987 and now manages approximately 1,000 locations across the country. The street where Odeng Sikdang is located, Hoguk-ro, has a handful of other budae-jjigae restaurants and was officially renamed Uijeongbu Budaejjigae Street in 1999. In 2011, K-pop superstar Hwangbo, formerly of the group Chakra, opened Shimsontang, which boasts a budae-jjigae made with 12-hour beef bone broth and has two locations in Seoul. And last year, the Michelin Guide named the food one of “the must-eat dishes in South Korea” for visitors.
n the past decade, budae-jjigae has spilled over from a Korean comfort food to a trendy international recipe. In a 2015 episode of Parts Unknown, Anthony Bourdain described budae-jjigae to television journalist Anderson Cooper as “a classic example of necessity being the mother of deliciousness”. Bourdain featured the dish again in his 2016 book Appetites. And Irish DJ and chef Marcus O'Laoire published his take on the “straight up Korean goodness” for The Irish
Times last year.
When Kim first started serving DMZ Stew (his take on budae-jjigae) at Danji nine years ago, he said there was backlash from what he now realises is “a very small minority of Koreans that want to portray only the good parts of Korean history”. While he empathises with the fact that some war survivors find budae-jjigae hard to reconcile, he chooses to see the dish as a reflection of South Korea’s success: how it has gone from being one of the world’s poorest countries in the 1950s to a global economic powerhouse today.
I don’t think Korea’s younger generation considers the country having been poor as something to be ashamed of. Budae-jjigae is an honest portrayal of where our country was and how far our country has come,” he said.
These days, instant noodle giants Nongshim, Ottogi, Paldo and Samyang each have their own version of budae-jjigae ramen – with many shipping boxes of army stew-flavoured ramen to the US and elsewhere. During autumn 2016, Nongshim’s budae-jjigae flavoured ramen called Bogle Bogle Budae-jjigae was so in demand that it grossed 10 billion won (£6.53m) in its first 50 days on the market.
Angela Kim, food director at the popular site Tasty Korea credits budae-jjigae’s modern popularity to its “easy-to-make” nature, and over the years, the rise of at-home kits and budae-jjigae-flavoured ramens have made the dish even more accessible. “Once you have great broth and ingredients, all you need to do is put in everything and boil,” she said. “You don’t need any special equipment like charcoal or a commercial oven, so anyone can cook it. It is Korean soul food.”
Amid the ongoing pandemic, budae-jjigae has once again become a topic of conversation. Its humble origins are a pertinent example of making lemonade out of lemons, but the dish is also a practical solution for many Koreans and Korean food fans cooking at home during social-distancing measures.
For those quarantined in South Korea, ready-made budae-jjigae packages, as well as packaged kimchi, ramen and spam, have been common items in quarantine meal kits delivered by local government offices. Jaimin Yoon, a Korean-American who was quarantined in South Korea recently, received packaged gamja-tang (spicy pork-back stew), doenjang-jiggae (soybean paste stew) and budae-jjigae alongside a box full of vegetables from a local farmer’s collective from the regional government office outside Seoul. Yoon, who isn’t a huge fan of the dish, said, “the positive is that it's greasy and hearty” and called it the “perfect” hangover food.
Still, according to sociologist Grace M Cho, this simple “comfort food” is layered, loaded and symbolic of many things for many people. In her article Eating Military Base Stew, she wrote, “It is a reminder of a brutal ‘Forgotten War’ that has not yet ended. It represents the creativity that emerged from devastation, a legacy of the complicated relationship between Koreans and Americans.”
Today, Odeng Sikdang remains a cultural icon. Sixty years after the restaurant first opened, each pot of budae-jjigae here is still served with a bowl of rice and a side of odeng fish cakes, and it still transports some diners back to their pasts.
In the painful aftermath of the Korean War, one woman’s recipe for a survival stew quickly spread across the country. Now, it’s one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.
Framed newspaper clippings and family photos hung on the faded yellow wallpaper of Odeng Sikdang restaurant in Uijeongbu, a city 30km north of Seoul. A cloud of steam engulfed 22-year-old Grace Moon’s face as she lifted the lid from a pot of budae-jjigae (army stew), and even before the fog dissipated, she and I were greeted by the savoury aroma of cheongyang chilli peppers and slightly fermented kimchi. The cauldron brimmed with generous portions of ham, sausage, minced meat, bacon, dumplings, rice cakes and ramen noodles sardined in a bubbling red soup.
Slurping up the ramen first, Moon, nodded with approval: “This is definitely different from the franchise stuff.”
Over lunch, Moon told me how her grandmother had first come across army stew after fleeing North Korea as a 12-year-old girl, and how she used to ask her grandmother to make it for her as a child. Moon said she would always oblige, even though it brought back traumatic memories of her journey escaping Pyongyang.
https://news.joins.com/article/23801188?cloc=joongang-home-newslistleftSometimes called “Korean army base stew”, budae-jjigae is a spicy sausage concoction marrying Korean flavours with processed American meats like Spam and hot dogs. It was created during the years of food scarcity immediately following the Korean War (1950-53), and today, some older Koreans – like Moon’s grandmother, who still refers to the dish as “garbage stew” – have painful associations with the dish.
There are a handful of theories as to exactly how this first Korean-American fusion meal originated, but the most widely acknowledged one harks back to here in Uijeongbu, and this very restaurant’s founder: Heo Gi-Suk.
Heo, who passed away in 2014, told her story at every opportunity. She used to stir-fry leftover meat from the nearby US Army base at a small odeng (fish cake) stand when a regular customer suggested she make the meats into a spicy soup with rice.
"Back then there wasn’t a lot to eat, but I acquired some ham and sausages. The only way to get meat in those days was to smuggle it from the army base,” Heo told the BBC in 2013. “We had to make do with whatever the soldiers had left over. We’d make a stew with whatever came out of the base, and my recipe was copied and spread throughout Korea.”
With the dish’s success, Heo turned her humble stand into a restaurant and opened Odeng Sikdang in 1960. Soon, restaurants serving the dish began to pop up near US military bases across the country. After US president Lyndon B Johnson visited South Korea in 1966, rumours circulated that he was a fan of the stew – giving budae-jjigae the nickname “Johnson-tang” (“Johnson soup”).
As more restaurants served army stew, more families started making the dish at home. To this day, each region has a slightly different take on budae-jjigae and fierce debates are had over which type of broth (kelp and anchovy or slow-cooked beef bone) is best, and if the ingredients should be stir-fried beforehand or not. In addition to the ingredients found at Odeng Sikdang, popular toppings include bacon, spring onions, mushrooms, baked beans, American yellow cheese and Spam. In fact, today South Koreans produce and consume more Spam than anywhere outside the US, and in many ways, this is due to budae-jjigae’s popularity in the decades after the Korean War.
Under President Park Chung-hee’s rule (1963-1979), South Korea went through a period of rapid economic development that resulted in less food scarcity but also high tariffs on imported meat. One of the reasons for this unlikely fusion food’s success was that Spam became viewed as a rare and expensive treat that enhanced the dish’s overall meaty flavour. According to anthropologist Sangmee Bak, the increasing globalisation in South Korea spurred by the 1986 Asian Games and 1988 Olympics held in Seoul also caused attitudes about food to change, and during this time, the image of budae-jjigae largely evolved from a survival stew to one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.
You may also be interested in:
• Asia's surprising foodie capital
• Is this the world's freshest seafood?
• The best place to eat Korean barbecue
These days, army stew can be found practically everywhere in South Korea. Nolboo, a budae-jjigae franchise, opened its first location in 1987 and now manages approximately 1,000 locations across the country. The street where Odeng Sikdang is located, Hoguk-ro, has a handful of other budae-jjigae restaurants and was officially renamed Uijeongbu Budaejjigae Street in 1999. In 2011, K-pop superstar Hwangbo, formerly of the group Chakra, opened Shimsontang, which boasts a budae-jjigae made with 12-hour beef bone broth and has two locations in Seoul. And last year, the Michelin Guide named the food one of “the must-eat dishes in South Korea” for visitors.
n the past decade, budae-jjigae has spilled over from a Korean comfort food to a trendy international recipe. In a 2015 episode of Parts Unknown, Anthony Bourdain described budae-jjigae to television journalist Anderson Cooper as “a classic example of necessity being the mother of deliciousness”. Bourdain featured the dish again in his 2016 book Appetites. And Irish DJ and chef Marcus O'Laoire published his take on the “straight up Korean goodness” for The Irish
Budae-jjigae is an honest portrayal of where our country was and how far our country has comeBut does budae-jjigae’s modern mainstream appeal and newfound international popularity mean perceptions about the dish have changed in Koreans who remember the dish’s painful, war-torn origins? Chef Hooni Kim, whose New York restaurant Danji became the first South Korean eatery to earn a Michelin star in 2012 and who features a budae-jjigae recipe in his cookbook My Korea, sees a generational divide with the dish.
When Kim first started serving DMZ Stew (his take on budae-jjigae) at Danji nine years ago, he said there was backlash from what he now realises is “a very small minority of Koreans that want to portray only the good parts of Korean history”. While he empathises with the fact that some war survivors find budae-jjigae hard to reconcile, he chooses to see the dish as a reflection of South Korea’s success: how it has gone from being one of the world’s poorest countries in the 1950s to a global economic powerhouse today.
I don’t think Korea’s younger generation considers the country having been poor as something to be ashamed of. Budae-jjigae is an honest portrayal of where our country was and how far our country has come,” he said.
These days, instant noodle giants Nongshim, Ottogi, Paldo and Samyang each have their own version of budae-jjigae ramen – with many shipping boxes of army stew-flavoured ramen to the US and elsewhere. During autumn 2016, Nongshim’s budae-jjigae flavoured ramen called Bogle Bogle Budae-jjigae was so in demand that it grossed 10 billion won (£6.53m) in its first 50 days on the market.
Angela Kim, food director at the popular site Tasty Korea credits budae-jjigae’s modern popularity to its “easy-to-make” nature, and over the years, the rise of at-home kits and budae-jjigae-flavoured ramens have made the dish even more accessible. “Once you have great broth and ingredients, all you need to do is put in everything and boil,” she said. “You don’t need any special equipment like charcoal or a commercial oven, so anyone can cook it. It is Korean soul food.”
Amid the ongoing pandemic, budae-jjigae has once again become a topic of conversation. Its humble origins are a pertinent example of making lemonade out of lemons, but the dish is also a practical solution for many Koreans and Korean food fans cooking at home during social-distancing measures.
Popular Korean-American food blogger Hyosun Ro recently posted a picture of budae-jjigae on Instagram and linked to her recipe for the dish, saying, “You can make this at home with a few pantry ingredients and kimchi.” Chef Peter Cho, a two-time James Beard Award semi-finalist who regularly serves budae-jjigae at his restaurant Han Oak in Portland, Oregon, said budae-jjigae is a fitting food for the pandemic because, “the dish comes from using all the shelf staples you might find in most grocery store aisles: Spam, canned sausage and canned beans”.
For those quarantined in South Korea, ready-made budae-jjigae packages, as well as packaged kimchi, ramen and spam, have been common items in quarantine meal kits delivered by local government offices. Jaimin Yoon, a Korean-American who was quarantined in South Korea recently, received packaged gamja-tang (spicy pork-back stew), doenjang-jiggae (soybean paste stew) and budae-jjigae alongside a box full of vegetables from a local farmer’s collective from the regional government office outside Seoul. Yoon, who isn’t a huge fan of the dish, said, “the positive is that it's greasy and hearty” and called it the “perfect” hangover food.
Still, according to sociologist Grace M Cho, this simple “comfort food” is layered, loaded and symbolic of many things for many people. In her article Eating Military Base Stew, she wrote, “It is a reminder of a brutal ‘Forgotten War’ that has not yet ended. It represents the creativity that emerged from devastation, a legacy of the complicated relationship between Koreans and Americans.”
Today, Odeng Sikdang remains a cultural icon. Sixty years after the restaurant first opened, each pot of budae-jjigae here is still served with a bowl of rice and a side of odeng fish cakes, and it still transports some diners back to their pasts.
Leaving the restaurant on a full
stomach, Grace Moon promised Kim Gab-seok, Odeng Sikdang’s hospitality
manager, that she would be back. A loyal customer of 20 years himself,
Kim said the restaurant’s recipe has remained almost exactly the same,
except that Heo added a few more cheongyang chilli peppers in her day.
“I work here, but I don’t get tired of the food,” he said. “I have it 10 times a week.”
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global?referer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2F
“I work here, but I don’t get tired of the food,” he said. “I have it 10 times a week.”
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global?referer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2F
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